The cloth

• 

  Cotton twill

  100% cotton · 340 gsm

  Kadambari Mills, Coimbatore

  A dense left-hand twill that starts stiff and goes soft in about a month. It is the cloth in the wide trouser; the tapered is cut from a lighter 320 gsm drill off the same looms.

• 

  Cotton–linen basketweave

  70% cotton, 30% linen · 210 gsm

  Anjani Weaving, Erode

  Open enough to move air, heavy enough to hang. The linen is what makes it crease, and we are not going to apologise for that.

• 

  Brushed moleskin

  100% cotton · 380 gsm

  Shirakawa Orimono, Ichinomiya

  Brushed on one face until it takes light like a matte paint. Held back for the winter trouser; there is a length of it in the shop to handle.

Weights are the finished weight after washing, not the greige weight the mill quotes. They are different numbers and the second one flatters everybody.